Smoke me a kipper, I’ll be back for breakfast!

Step 1. You will need to catch your herrings; I caught mine in Tesco, of course. Well, the sea was a little stormy this week, and I don’t have a boat.

Step 2. Off with their heads, which will get used to make fish stock when I next need some. In the meantime, they live in the big freezer, along with the mackerel heads from an earlier episode of this journal.
I‘ve given up numbering the steps, as it was far too much faffing about. As I was gutting the herrings, I was pleased to find they were nicely full of roes, which I saved in the freezer, to be used in somthing tasty when I think what it will be. Perhaps I will smoke them lightly and put them in a taramasalata. That’s the only word with six As in it that I know, by the way.
Cutting along one side of the spine, almost all the way to the top of the fish, enabled me to open them out into the normal kipper shape. I’m going to have to remove the bones from any I try to serve to Mrs Walrus, of course, but these are not shop-style filleted kippers. I was going to leave the tails on, but it made them harder to fit on the racks. In big smoke houses, they use the tails to hang the herrings up for kippering, I believe. Having had fish fall down onto the smoking wood in a previous adventure, I did these beauties on racks. The racks are suspended  on hooks made from 2mm galvanized wire, quickly bent with a pair of pliers. At some point, I will make something that doesn’t have to hang over the edge of the smoking bin, as that lets quite a lot of smoke out.

I‘m not sure if you can see it very well in this shot, but smoke is escaping. This time, the wood was a blend of cherry, beech, and alder. I thought maybe the oak I used last time might be a bit too strong. Twenty minutes seemed like a suitable length of time to smoke for, and indeed, the wood ran out of smoke at about that point anyway.
Here we have kippers! They don’t look raw, and are waiting in the fridge for a suitable breakfast at which to serve them. I’ve been trying to remember how we used to heat them up for serving when I was young. I’m fairly sure a frying pan was involved, but then again, the microwave does a good job of warming smoked mackerel, so I might just use that.

The duck is not getting smoked…

When I was planning our Sunday dinner, I thought it might be interesting to smoke the duck breasts for added flavour. But, as I hadn’t done that before, I did an experiment on Saturday, with a chicken breast, to see whether I liked it.

This miniature galvanised dustbin is what I use for hot smoking. I bought it on eBay for a very reasonable price. Putting the smoking wood in the bottom and heating it on the lowest gas setting of the smallest burner produces plenty of smoke.
Here’s the set-up with a test chicken breast in it. The shelf is a cooling rack, again from eBay, and the hooks are made from 2mm galvanised garden wire. I put the bit of foil in to stop drips falling onto the wood, as burnt chicken juice is not a particularly pleasant flavour! The digital thermometer probe’s end is in the thickest part of the chicken breast.
Lid on, and light up! I kept an eye on the temperature, and turned the extractor fan right up to avoid setting off the smoke alarm. After about ten minutes, the volume of smoke escaping from the top of the dusbin was very much reduced, and at twelve minutes, the inside of the chicken had reached 55°C, so I turned the gas off. That’s supposed to be the right temperature for a nice pink duck breast, according to the internet. If you happen to be in America, it’s also, the internet says, dangerously undercooked. Since well-done duck is pretty much not worth eating, I ignore such warnings.
As you can see, the chicken is cooked, but still very pleasantly moist. The smoky coating on it was very strong tasting, and I think either a different smoke wood, or a lot less of it would have been better.

I was very pleased with the result, though. We decided not to use the smoker for our Sunday dinner, after all.
Here it is, with boiled new potatoes, steamed courgette and pak choi. The sauce has white wine, orange juice, and orange zest in it. The duck was delicious, as usual, and I really don’t think it needs any extra flavour.

[Gressingham Duck, feel free to advertise on this page!]

Toulouse sausages…


These sausages are a step on the path to a mighty cassoulet that I intend to make soon. The inspiration for the cassoulet comes from Tim Hayward’s book, “The DIY Cook”. The book can actually be bought new for less than half the price Amazon are asking.

Along the way to the cassoulet, I have already made and stored confit duck legs, and petit salé, which is a sort of French cured pork, a bit like bacon.



The Toulouse sausage recipe I used, however, is not the one in this book, as I liked the look of the recipe I found online, on a blog called “Adventures with the Pig”. I used rather more meat than he does, 2 kg in fact, and left out the breadcrumbs, which I feel have no place in a sausage. You don’t have to take my word for that, and are at perfect liberty to add things to your sausages if you want to. Of course, they’ll be inferior, but the freedom!


I used one kilo of pork shoulder (pork butt, if you are on the left of the Atlantic Ocean), and one kilo of pork belly. They were cubed and frozen, before being allowed to nearly defrost. Doing that stops the loss of delicious meat juice during the mincing. This one requires the coarse setting of your mincer, as it’s supposed to be a nice rustic sausage.


Here are the casings, in this case, they are hog casings. They need to be soaked for a couple of hours before use. There’s no getting away from it, these things are unpleasant to handle, but either you want real sausages, or you don’t.

There are people who insist on using a hand powered mincer, and I imagine they have one arm very much bigger than the other. Here’s what I use, on our trusty Kenwood Chef. I’ve had that plastic bowl since 1979, if you were wondering. (Update: I recycled the plastic bowl. It was getting fairly thin in places…)

The other ingredients are thyme, black pepper, nutmeg, garlic, red wine (200 ml) and about four teaspoons of salt. Ordinary cooking salt is fine. You don’t need Nigella’s beloved Maldon salt, or kosher salt, whatever that is.

Here we go! Add the herbs, spices, salt, and red wine to the minced meat, put on your CSI glove, and get stuck in. I always hold my gloved hand under a tap, to attempt to remove the talc, or whatever it is, from the glove before I get started on this.

Mix for a good long time, until everything seems to be properly blended. This can easily take ten minutes, by which time you will have a worryingly cold hand.

Once you think you have mixed it enough, take a little sample, and fry it, so you can check you are happy with the flavourings. Adding more, if something seems to be lacking, is easy, but I have no idea what to do if I think I have put too much garlic. This has never happened, but I am a great fan of garlic…







Caption competition.

The casings need to be slid onto the sausage stuffing attachment. It’s easier if you keep them as wet as you can. I’m going to refrain from all the remarks almost every other web site makes about this process at this point.

Load up the machine with mince, and away you go…

Left hand guides the sausage, and slows down the casing, so it fills properly, while your right hand pushes the meat down into the machine. If you are left handed, you will need to stand on your head, or turn the machine round.

You can twist them into links as you go, or when you have finished. I’ve done them both ways, and the results seem much the same.



In a surprisingly short time, you will have lovely sausages, in large numbers. I tend to divide them into groups big enough for a meal and cling film them before freezing them.




Smoked Mackerel, Food of the Gods.

I’ve been meaning to try smoking food for a long time, and finally got round to it. The inspiration for this little project came from Tim Hayward’s book, “Food DIY”, as so many of these fun things I do have.


I bought these four nice mackerel from Mr Tesco for the princely sum of £6.16 for 1.76Kg.

I didn’t get the lass on the counter to gut them, or fillet them, because I feel good about being able to do grown-up stuff like that myself.

I removed the guts for disposal, and then cut off the heads, and filleted them. I would normally not waste the tasty heads and the bones, along with the flesh remaining on them, but instead of making fish stock, or even a Singapore fish head curry, I wanted to concentrate on learning the smoking procedures.

Here are the fillets. They are rather pretty this way up, and you don’t get to see some of my rougher knife work this way. I salted them for about half an hour, but forgot to take any pictures of that.

I’ve been accumulating the things I would need for this job for quite a while now, including three bags of wood for smoking. I decided to go for a nice, robust oak smoking this time. The bags of wood came from somebody on eBay, I think.

These days, eBay is one of the first places I look when I want to buy something for these games.

It’s where I got the rather fine bin in the next picture, which is made out of steel, treated by galvanising it. Because of that, it has no paint on it, an important point when choosing something to put on top of the gas hob. It would probably work fine on an electric hob, as long as it was in contact with the heat.

As for those ceramic induction hobs they fit in “designer” homes, I have no idea whether this would work, or the dustbin would levitate and explode. 

I like to cook with gas because I can control it quickly. This matters when you are in the habit of cooking experimentally. Or just mentally…

Flinging some wood in the bin, I set to work to hang the mackerel fillets up, in a similar way to the illustration in “Food DIY”. Instead of the skewer he used, which would have needed holes in the bin, I made a cunningly shaped hanging wire from a metal clothes hanger. You know, the sort that used to be on inner city Ford Escorts as radio aerials, after yobs had snapped the proper ones off.

By this point, things were obviously going far too well.

The fillets, hanging on the wire, looked lovely, and were all ready for some hot, smoky action.

I considered turning the kitchen smoke alarm off, in case the dustbin lid let out too much smoke, but decided instead to turn the cooker hood up to level three, the one that makes a noise like a jumbo jet. I took the metal grills off the bottom of the extractor, in an attempt to get maximum airflow.

I shouldn’t have done that, as I saw they needed cleaning, a job I did when I finished the real fun stuff.
It was time. I lit the gas, and watched anxiously. Quite soon, smoke began to trickle out from under the lid, and it smelled rather amazing. I was rather glad the smoke detector kept quiet, until I thought that I would want to test it later because of that.

I gave it about fifteen minutes of heat, and stopped. There was a fair bit of smoky condensation around the edge of the lid, and it turned out to be more than there would have been if the fish had behaved themselves, and stayed on the wire.

Three of them had broken, and fallen down into the bottom of the bin. I don’t know if salting them for longer would have toughened them up enough to stay on the wire. I’ve decided to get some wire racks to go in the bin, so this will not happen again.


As you can see, most of the wood has given up its smoke, without bursting into flames, and the fish is cooked. It looked and smelled fine, and I retrieved the fallen bits as well.

The weight of the smoked fish produced, apart from the delicious bits that accidentally fell in my mouth, was 768g. Tesco sells smoked mackerel for £1 for a hundred grams, so not only have I produced something wonderful, but i have made a small saving in money terms!
Here are the bits I didn’t taste. I’ve frozen half, and kept the rest in the fridge. Breakfast will be nice…


Paella for two

No, I’m not going to give you a recipe. There are thousands of them on the web, and most of the ones that don’t tell you to put chorizo in will be quite acceptable. Here are the ingredients I used.


The onion gets cooked in olive oil until it’s soft first, then the chicken, garlic, peeled deseeded tomatoes, and paprika go in.



Once they seem to be done enough, add the rice, as above, and stock. This is chicken stock from a stock cube (I know, I should be using home made stock, but I’ve run out of it) with some saffron added. Unlike a risotto, where you add the stock a bit at a time, it all goes in at once for a paella. Try not to stir it any more than you need to to stop it sticking to the pan.

I really ought to have a lid that fits this pan.

The finished dish, garnished with fresh parsley. I had to wash the parsley very thoroughly, as the rain had enticed numerous small slugs onto it, that I had no interest in eating.


Barbecue time!

I finished building our barbecue a little sooner than I thought I would, and we had our first barbecue at our new house on Saturday.


First, I defrosted some ribs.


















 And cut them up.

Next step is to put them into the newly made (because we have not barbecued for almost two years) rib marinade. It’s based on a sachet of Chinese style red-cooked pork spices, with various appropriate additions. The ribs are boiled in the marinade for twenty minutes. The marinade is now in the freezer, waiting for the next batch of ribs. It improves each time it is used….



The barbecue will probably never be this clean again. In due course, which means when we have enough money, there will be some nice slate paving around the barbecue, but at the moment I’m relying on temporary duck-boards to stop me sinking into the mud.

I have money to burn, you know. I use this joss money from my friends at Wai Yee Hong to light the barbecue. It’s as close as I get to spirituality.

The fire took an age to light, probably something to do with the charcoal being damp, or something like that. Can you forget how to light a barbecue? Aargh!

Anyway, eventually, we had fire, and there was much rejoicing. No, the barbecue wasn’t falling over. It’s probably an artistic choice by the photographer.

Here we see the dual function feature. Ribs cooking, and hand warming at the same time.

We also had lemon and herb chicken on sticks, but I seem to have forgotten to photograph them in all the excitement.

More fire time than food to cook! Much better than the other way round.

And then it went dark. Happy eaters went indoors, feeling pleasantly full.


More soon, even if it’s really cold out there.


I had really missed barbecuing…

A duck roast.

duck01 We had a roast-in-the-bag duck crown in the freezer, but I wanted to feed the three of us, so I bought a couple of extra duck breasts. These Gressingham duck items seem to be in most UK supermarkets, and they are rather good. I also didn’t want to have all the faff of cutting the duck off the bones after it was duck02cooked, so I decided to remove all the bones before starting, and combine all the meat into a single roast. On the left, you can see what is inside the roasting bag. The legs, and the tail end have gone to other customers. I often use the leg joints for confit duck.

duck03Anyway, I sharpened my boning knife, and set to… here I have cut away the wings, and started to separate the breast from the rib cage, taking care not to cut the skin.

 

duck04By this point, the rib cage, spine, and shoulder bones have gone into the stock pot, along with the wings, and are being boiled up for a lovely stock. The whole thing is a bit untidy, as this was the first attempt at this task, so I cut off the untidy edges, and rendered the fat from them, to add to my collection of duck fat. duck05When I have enough, I will be able to do confit duck legs again.

I skinned the two separate breasts, rendering the fat from the skin, and put the breasts on the flat piece of meat. Out with the trusty supply of butchers’ string, and I eventually trussed the meat into a fairly tidy joint. duck06The picture shows the second try, because the first time I did it, the two separate duck breasts slid out as I tightened the knots. It probably wasn’t as funny as I thought…
duck07Here it is, in the handy aluminium tray that was supplied with the duck crown. I inserted a thermometer probe into the duck, as I didn’t want to ruin it by overcooking it. Anything over 50ºC would do that, according to the online sources I looked at. That’s 122ºF, if you are cooking in old money, as I believe some
duck09countries do. I roasted it at 180ºC until the thermometer started beeping, and took it out of the oven to rest while I cooked the vegetables. The heat in the outer parts of the duck were conducted to the centre, and I was quite worried as it achieved a core temperature of 55ºC during that time, with no additional heat.
But, as you can see, the meat was still nicely pink and succulent. I would have liked the skin on the outside to be crispy, and will use a much hotter oven the next duck10time I try this. Overall, though, I was very pleased with this meal. The sauce was a chicken gravy from the store cupboard (Bisto, since you ask) flavoured with some hoi-sin sauce. New potatoes, sweetcorn, and soya beans were good, too.

 

 

 

 

A recent lasagne…

IMG_20160830_173149Here are some of the things I used to make a recent lasagne. It’s fairly hard to see, but there’s a bowl of home grown garlic at the back, on the right. Just push garlic cloves that are too small to bother peeling into the ground. A few months later, they will have multiplied enormously, and somehow pulled themselves down until they are six inches underground. I have no idea how they manage to do that, but they do. I must remember to ask my favourite botanist, if he ever visits us.

IMG_20160830_175521This is the humble, yet powerful, Oxo cube that I used, to flavour the rather insipid looking beef mince. Some people tear the foil off, and crumble the cube with their fingers. Try this… Pull the little flaps out as shown, and hit the cube a couple of times IMG_20160830_175534with your palm, until it is flattened. Now you can just rip it and tip the powdered Oxo straight into the pan. Isn’t that clever? I would credit the source of the tip, if I could remember it.

IMG_20160830_175603That meat will need to be browned properly, of course, before you carry on making the sauce, but you know that, don’t you? I wasn’t following a recipe, just doing what seemed likely to be the way I have made lasagne before.

IMG_20160830_181542Now some recipes have you put layers of sauce in with the layers of meat and pasta. I don’t do that, mainly because it increases hugely the amount of sauce you will need, and tends to make the final dish sloppy. I have been known to put in layers of grated cheese, and that can work quite well, but this lasagne didn’t have any.

Making the sauce is something one IMG_20160830_182615ends up knowing how to do without measuring things. A lump of butter of a certain size. A big, but not too big, spoonful of flour. Do not forget Colman’s mustard powder, about half a teaspoonful. It’s not enough to make the sauce taste mustardy, but it will seem dull if you forget to put it in. IMG_20160830_182651The butter and flour have to be cooked until there is what one recipe book describes as a “biscuity smell”.

You can see how it looks after the first little bit of milk has been added, in the third shot of the pan. Gradually, more milk is added, until the sauce seems runny enough to add grated IMG_20160830_182728cheese. Please use a decent Cheddar, not soapy cheap stuff.

Lately, I have taken to cooking the layered meat sauce and pasta while I make the cheese sauce for the top, and that does help to prevent it from being sloppy. The result can be seen in the last IMG_20160830_194550picture, along with a salad that miraculously appeared while the lasagne was cooking.

Nice tins of cider also got onto the table, and made the meal even more pleasant.

 

 

Get back on the bike…

You know what they keep telling you: if you fall off your horse, you must get back on. We were not rich enough to have horses… we had to get back on bikes. Anyway… I had a bread recipe go hideously wrong a week or so ago.

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This is the recipe, and it’s one I’ve used quite a few times. It’s a tasty bread that uses both yeast and sourdough starter, the latter for its flavour, rather than to raise the bread. It seemed a little wet when I took it from the fridge after its overnight stay, but it shaped in the usual way, and I put it into the proving basket. At this point, as the saying goes, I must have lost my presence of mind, as I forgot about it for a couple of hours…

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The result of that was that it grew hugely, stuck to the proving basket, and made a remarkable mess when I managed to get it out. Scraping the rest out of the proving basket, and adding more flour as I tried to shape it again, I scraped the thing into a baking tin. Well, it was obviously not going to cook on the baking stone in a civilised manner.IMG_20160815_163712small

Here it is. There was no point trying to score the top. I just cooked it, convinced it would not be worth eating anyway.IMG_20160815_180053small

 

 

It came out like this, with a good big crack caused by the oven spring.

 

 

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The crumb was very dense, and the crust could do with stronger teeth than I possess, but the flavour was reasonable.

 

 

 

Yesterday, I jumped back onto the bicycle, and used the same recipe. It came out of the fridge looking like dough instead of soup, and it didn’t stick to the proving basket either. Here’s the result. It’s lovely.

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Slut’s spaghetti

ingredientsThis was a dish I had been wanting to make for a while, although I was told I had done it before. Well, I’m allowed to forget things sometimes. As you can see, I’m using a Nigella recipe. It’s all over the internet, along with the scene from “A Series of Unfortunate Events” in which the children serve it. The recipe is everywhere, too, and is very simple.

bowl of food close up